Category Archives: In General

Boating Tip #58: Fairleads

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Fairleads are pieces of hardware usually shaped like a chock or ring and located on fairlead tracks on the cabin roof on both the port and starboard sides of the boat. Sheets attached to the headsail clew are led through the fairlead on their way back to the cockpit. Fairleads change the angle of the sheet, therefor changing the percentage of tension between the foot (bottom) and leech (trailing edge) of the sail. They are also used to minimize friction on the sheets from vibration, and keep the lazy sheet (the windward line not in use) from moving around on the deck.

Fairleads can only be adjusted when the line is not under load, and the boat is sailing on the opposite tack.

When sailing to windward in strong winds, move the fairleads aft to put more twist in the top of the sail, reduce tesion on the leech, and spill wind. This will depower the boat and lessen excessive heel.

When sailing to windward in light winds, move the fairleads forward to flatten the sail. This will power up the boat.

When you partially furl the sail in order to reef (reduce size), move the fairleads forward.

Boating Tip #57: Sample Emergency Equipment Locator Map

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Boating Tip #56: Waves

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Ocean waves are wind generated, with the exception of tsunami which are a result of seismic activity such as earthquakes, and volcanic eruptions. The effect that wind will have on wave formation depends on the wind speed, the duration or amount of time the wind blows over an area, and its fetch. The fetch is the unobstructed distance over which the wind blows. When waves travel beyond the fetch, the wavelength, period and direction of travel become more uniform, and the seas are then referred to as swell. Waves exists as energy as the swell moves through the water. Water doesn’t move in open oceans and lakes, although the opposite is true in rivers.

Capillary waves or ripples form first. As the size of a wave increases, it becomes narrower and steeper, developing the trochoid form unique to ocean waves.

Wave height (the vertical distance from the trough to the crest) is equal to 1/20th of the wave length (the horizontal distance from crest to crest). Wave motion is circular, with the circles getting progressively smaller as you go deeper in the water.

The pattern changes as the wave approaches shore. The ocean bottom crowds the energy upward, motion becomes oval shaped or elliptical rather than circular, and actually flat on the ocean bottom, surging forward and back.

When water depth equals one half of the wave length, the bottom friction begins to slow the advancing wave. The back of the wave crowds the front of the wave and water piles up. The bottom of the wave is moving slower than the top of the wave, so the top begins to curl. A wave will break , creating surf, when the angle at the crest falls below 120°, or when the height of the wave is 1/7th the length of the wave, or when wave height reaches 3/4 of the water depth.

The speed at which a wave travels in open water depends on its wavelength, and can be calculated using the formulas:

Speed (in knots) equals 3 times the interval period (in seconds)
____ C = 3 x T

or

Speed (in knots) equals 1.34 times the square root of the wavelength (in feet)
____ C = 1.34 V λ

T (Period) λ (Wavelength) C (Speed)
6 seconds 182 feet 18 knots
7 seconds 242 feet 21 knots
8 seconds 322 feet 24 knots
9 seconds 408 feet 27 knots
10 seconds 502 feet 30 knots
11 seconds 610 feet 33 knots
12 seconds 725 feet 36 knots
13 seconds 850 feet 39 knots
14 seconds 985 feet 42 knots
15 seconds 1,128 feet 45 knots
16 seconds 1,284 feet 48 knots

When waves move toward shallower water, wave speed decreases, the wavelengthbecomes shorter and height increases. Wave speed in shallow water is more dependant onthe depth of the water, and can be calculated using the formula:

Speed (in knots) equals 3.4 times the square root of the water depth (in feet)
____ C = 3.4 V h

h (Depth) C (Speed)
1 foot 3.4 knots
2 feet 4.8 knots
3 feet 5.9 knots
4 feet 6.8 knots
5 feet 7.6 knots
6 feet 8.3 knots
7 feet 9.0 knots
8 feet 9.6 knots
9 feet 10.2 knots
10 feet 10.7 knots
11 feet 11.2 knots
12 feet 11.7 knots
13 feet 12.2 knots
14 feet 12.7 knots
15 feet 13.1 knots
16 feet 13.6 knots
17 feet 14.0 knots
18 feet 14.4 knots
19 feet 14.8 knots
20 feet 15.2 knots
21 feet 15.6 knots
22 feet 15.9 knots
23 feet 16.3 knots
24 feet 16.6 knots
25 feet 17.0 knots
50 feet 24.0 knots
75 feet 29.4 knots
100 feet 34.0 knots
125 feet 38.0 knots
150 feet 41.6 knots
175 feet 45.0 knots
200 feet 48.0 knots

Boating Tip #55: Sailing Participation Agreement

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Click here to download Mermaid QOTS Sailing Participation Agreement (PDF format)

Boating Tip #55: Sailing Participation Agreement is available by download only.

Boating Tip #54: Telltales

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Telltales are strips of ripstop nylon, tape, pieces of yarn, or other lightweight material that are attached to sails to help determine whether a sail is properly trimmed. They help a sailor see the air moving across a sail. Correctly trimmed sails produce an improvement in performance and boat speed.

Telltales are sometimes also attached to shrouds to indicate apparent wind direction.

Telltales are usually fastened to a sail with waterproof tape or an adhesive patch. On a headsail, sets of telltales are placed ¼, ½ and ¾ of the way down the sail about one foot aft of the luff. Typically a green telltale is attached on the starboard side of the sail, and a red tail on the port side. On a mainsail, three or four telltales are attached and evenly spaced down the leach so that they stream out behind the sail.

By looking at the telltales, your can determine if you are sailing too close to the wind, and whether a sheet needs to be pulled in or let out. When the sail is trimmed properly, the telltales all fly aft and flutter parallel to the water. If the telltales are all flying straight aft, the sheets can be eased slightly.

If the main is not properly trimmed, the telltales will stall and droop down or blow forward.

If the headsail is not trimmed correctly, the telltales will tell you what corrective action must be taken. If the telltales on the windward side of the sail are lifting, you are either pointed too high into the wind, or the sail is let out too far. If the telltales on the lee side are lifting, you are sailing too low or the sail is pulled in too tight. Either adjust the sails or correct your course direction.

Telltales can also help you determine is the fairleads are in the correct position for the existing wind conditions. While sailing close hauled, you should be able to adjust the sail so that all three sets of telltales on the headsail are flying parallel to the water. If the fairleads are positioned too far forward, the highest leeward and lowest windward telltales will flutter around. If the fairleads are positioned too far aft, the opposite will occur. The highest windward and lowest leeward telltales will flutter.

Boating Tip #53: Yamaha 2-1/2 hp Outboard Motor Operation

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Pre-start Checklist:

  • Perform a brief safety and maintenance inspection.
  • Make sure the outboard motor is properly mounted on the centerline of the dinghy.
  • Check the clamp screws to make sure the outboard in firmly attached to the transom.
  • Check the throttle, gear shift, and steering tension for proper operation. Tighten or loosen the steering friction screw. Adjust the throttle friction resistance wingnut.
  • Check the fuel level in the tank. If the fuel level is low, fill the tank with regular unleaded gasoline.
  • Check the engine oil level.
  • Make sure each passenger has a PFD. Children under 12 years of age must wear their PFD at all times while in the dinghy.
  • Make sure all required safety gear is aboard (flares, orange smoke, anchor, bailer, fire extinguisher…)
  • Check that the spare parts and engine tool kit is aboard the dinghy (tools, extra spark plug, kill switch lanyard, cotter pin, starter handle)
  • Install navigation lights if you plan to be out after dark. Check the lights to make sure they work.
  • Take along a portable VHF radio so that you can call for help in an emergency. Make sure the radio is charged and ready for use.

WARNING! This engine is water cooled. Do not start the engine out of water.

Fueling:

  • Stop the engine before refueling.
  • Do not smoke, and keep open flames, sparks or anything that might ignite the gasoline away from the engine while fueling.
  • Open the fuel fill cap by turning counterclockwise.
  • Slowly pour gasoline into the tank.
  • Don’t overfill the tank. The fuel tank holds 0.24 gallons of regular unleaded gasoline with an octane rating of at least 86.
  • Clean up any spills immediately.

Adding Engine Oil:

  • Open both cowling lock levers and remove the top cowling cover.
  • Visually look to see that a thin coating of oil covers the oil level check window.
  • If the oil level is low (below the lower mark in the oil level check window), twist open the yellow cap and add either 10W-30 or 10W-40 engine oil.
  • Do not overfill the reservoir. The engine oil capacity is 0.37 quarts.

To Start the Engine:

  • Insert the black plastic lockplate on the kill switch lanyard onto the orange engine stop switch.
  • Attach the other end of the lanyard to the operator’s body, PFD or clothing, so if the operator falls away from the helm or overboard, the cord will pull away from the switch and stop the engine.
  • Open the fuel tank air vent on the top of the fuel cap by turning counterclockwise a couple of turns.
  • Turn the fuel cock lever to the open position to allow gasoline to move from the fuel tank to the engine carburetor.
  • Make sure the gear shift control lever is in neutral (straight up and down) before starting the engine.
  • Pull open the choke knob to the start position when starting a cold engine.
  • Move the throttle grip all the way to the right (clockwise) to the start position.
  • Pull the recoil starter grip to crank the engine.
  • After the engine starts, push the choke knob to the 1/2 way point and run at a lower speed for 5 minutes to warm the engine. After the engine is warm, push the choke knob in all the way to the run position so the engine doesn’t stall.
  • Pull the gear shift toward you to put the engine in forward gear.
  • Steer by moving the tiller handle to the right or left and in the opposite direction you want the boat to turn.
  • If necessary, trim the angle of the outboard to compensate for weight, water or wind conditions.
  • If after sunset, turn on the navigation lights.

To Change Speed:

  • To increase speed, turn the throttle grip on the tiller handle counterclockwise
  • To decrease speed, turn the throttle grip on the tiller handle clockwise

To Stop the Engine:

  • Pull on the lanyard and pull the lockplate clip out from behind the orange engine stop switch. (Or, move the throttle grip lever to the slow position, and push and hold down the orange engine stop button until the engine stops).
  • Move the fuel cock lever to the off position.
  • Close the fuel tank air vent clockwise.

To Operate the Engine in Reverse:

  • Move the throttle grip to the slow position to reduce speed.
  • Turn the outboard around 180° and pivot the tiller handle so it faces you.
  • Move the gear shift lever from neutral to forward.

To Tilt the Engine Up and Out of the Water:

  • Stop the engine.
  • Close the air vent screw so gasoline does not leak out of the tank.
  • Place the gear shift in neutral with the engine facing forward.
  • Tighten the steering friction adjuster.
  • Use the rear handle to tilt the outboard up.
  • The tilt support lever will automatically lock the outboard into the up position.

To Lower the Engine Back into the Water from the Tilted Up Position:

  • Slightly tilt the motor up.
  • Pull the tilt support lever up while slowly lowering the motor down.
  • Loosen the steering friction adjuster.

To Tow the Dinghy Astern:

  • Attach a sailboat halyard to the outboard. The outboard motor weighs 37 pounds.
  • Loosen the clamp screws from the dinghy transom.
  • Remove the outboard from the dinghy by manually lifting it away from the transom and hoisting it using the halyard and winch. Lift the outboard to a position above the sailboat lifelines.
  • Guide the outboard to the rail mounted bracket on the sailboat. Secure it to the bracket by tightening the clam screws clockwise.
  • Secure the clamp screws with plastic zip ties or a line.
  • Tie the dinghy tow line (hawser) to the sailboat and tow short while leaving the slip, anchorage or mooring, or while in astern propulsion.
  • After clearing the marina, anchorage or mooring, and in open water free of obstructions, let out the hawser and tow long. To reduce shock stress on the towing hawser, make sure there is enough catenary so the line dips into the water. Let out enough line so that both vessels are in step and reach a wave crest or trough at the same time.
  • Make sure bridle legs are of equal lengths.
  • To reduce yaw, use longer bridle legs.

Outboard:

Yamaha 2.5 hp outboard
California Air Resources Board emission level:  Two stars – very low emissions
Type:  4–stroke S, 1 cylinder / 2 valves
Displacement:  72 cm3 (4.39 in3)
Bore & stroke:  2.13 x 1.24 inches
Full throttle RPM range:  5250 – 5750 rpms
Rated power:  2.5 hp @ 5500 rpm
Idle speed:  1900 rpms
Cooling system:  Water
Ignition system:  TCI
Starting system:  Manual
Propeller:  3–blade metal
Dry weight:  37 pounds
Dimensions:  24.5″ x 13.6″ x 40.2″

Boating Tip #52: Memory Aids & Rhymes

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Anyone who ever sat through a navigation class or spent time aboard a boat with experienced sailors, has certainly heard some of these common rhymes that help sailors remember information on weather and navigation.

Red, right, returning
Under IALA System B (International Association of Lighthouse Authorities), this is a reminder to keep red lateral buoys or marks on the vessel’s starboard (right) side when returning from the sea in the U.S. and North America. Note: IALA System B which is the opposite (green, right, returning) is used in Europe, Australia – and actually, in most of the rest of the world.
Even red nuns carry odd green cans
Reminder that red lateral buoys have even numbers and pointed tops, and green buoys have odd numbers and flat tops.
Identifying Lights
Red over red, the captain is dead
Red, white, red, restrictions ahead
Red, red, red, no clearance below
Red over white, eating fish tonight
Green over white, eating shrimp tonight
White over red, the pilot’s ahead
Red over green, I’m a sailing machine
Green, green, green
Flashing blue, the law’s got you
Yellow over white, hawser’s tight
Yellow over yellow, I’m a tug pushing tow
2 whites in a row, is a tug and a tow
3 whites in a row, is a tug and long tow
1 sternlight will show, when tug touches tow
Flashing yellow, inland tug
Old & New Rods Catch Fish So Purchase Some OK
Used to help determine vessel priority:
O    Overtaken
N    NUC (Not Under Command)
R    RAM (Restricted in Ability to Maneuver)
C    CBD (Constrained By Draft)
F    Commercial fishing vessels or trawlers
S    Sailboats
P    Power Driven Vessels
S    Seaplanes
O    Overtaking
East is least, West is best
Helps the navigator to remember which scale to read on a triangle when finding course.
Correcting and uncorrecting the compass
True Virgins Make Dull Company, Add Whiskey
TVMDC +W, –E
Can Dead Men Vote Twice At Elections
CDMVT +E, –W
Port wine is red
Helps boaters remember that the red running light is on the port side of a boat.