Category Archives: In General

Boating Tip #41: Shore Power

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WARNING

Do not drop a live shore power cord in the water or fall into the water while holding a live 30 amp / 125 volt electrical cord. If a live shore power cord accidentally falls in the water, do not reach for it without first turning off the circuit breaker, and disconnecting the male end from the dock box and/or the female end from the boat.

  • Make sure the circuit breaker is turned off before connecting or disconnecting a shore power cord
  • Unplug the male plug end from the shore power receptacle at the dock box before unplugging in the female connector end at the boat
  • Close the cover over the socket on the boat and hand tighten
  • Do not leave a live shore power cord tightly coiled on the pier with the male plug connected to the shore power receptacle at the dock box
  • Plug in the female connector end to the boat before plugging in the male plug end to the shore power receptacle at the dock box
  • Plug in the female connector to the boat and turn the plug a quarter turn to the right
  • Hand tighten (clockwise) the black plastic locking ring to secure the connector to the boat
  • If the shore power cord falls in the water and gets wet:
    • Disconnect the cord from the power source before retrieving it
    • Rinse it with fresh water
    • Shake water out of the plug and dry it
    • Spray the plug blades and connector slots with a moisture displacement spray before using the cord again

Boating Tip #40: Returning to Port

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Returning to port, entering a channel or basin

  • Turn on the motor
  • Head into the wind and furl the jib
  • Line up with the channel and keep the red channel entrance buoy to starboard (RRR)
  • Motor into the channel, staying to the right of center
  • Close the main hatch over the companionway
  • Drop the mainsail, flake the sail, and attach the sail to the boom with sail ties
  • Move the main halyard from the head of the main sail to the keeper on the aft end of the boom
  • Cover the sail
  • Loosen the main sheet and boom vang, then place the main halyard on the winch and raise the boom about 1 foot. This will give the helmsman better visibility while docking.
  • Prepare docklines and coil all other lines
  • Attach fenders
  • Open the gate in lifelines
  • Assign line and boat hook handlers

Docking (Bow First)

  • Slow approach to dead slow
  • Start turning when the bow passes the neighboring boat
  • Position the boat at a 15° angle to the dock
  • Shift into neutral
  • Reverse if necessary to slow your speed or straighten out
  • Add a left turn if making a starboard side landing to counter the paddle wheel effect
  • Have line handlers step down onto the pier and snub the docklines with a round turn around the cleats
  • Kill the diesel engine with the “stop” button
  • Secure all lines

Docking (Stern In)

  • Make a port turn to drift the bow to port
  • Reverse prop wash will move the stern in line with the bow
  • Back up slowly
  • When there is enough momentum to dock, shift into neutral
  • Back into the slip
  • Apply forward thrust to stop the boat
  • Have line handlers step onto the pier and snub the docklines with a round turn around the cleats
  • Kill diesel engine with the “stop” button
  • Secure all lines

After docking

  • Flemish the dock lines
  • Tie off the dinghy
  • Reattach the shore power cord, then turn on the 30 amp breaker
  • Turn off the inverter
  • Leave the battery dials on “both” when leaving the boat and plugged in to shore power so batteries will charge
  • When anchored or moored, switch off the DC main breaker so the batteries will not be drained (unless DC power is needed to run an appliance such as a refrigerator)
  • Turn off all unused DC toggle switches on the electrical panel
  • Leave the bilge pump on “auto”
  • Clean and wash down boat and make ship shape
  • Log the time of arrival at your destination and the distance traveled

Boating Tip #39: Reefing

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Reefing is a procedure used to reduce the amount of sail area exposed to the wind in order to diminish the amount of heel and keep the boat moving forward. Various reefing systems are installed to assist with reducing sail area on modern recreational sailboats. Once sail area is reduced, and a new foot of the sail is created, the sail is secured to the boom with small lines called reef points. There may be one, two, three or more sets of reef bands sewn into the sail, allowing the sail to be further reduced in size as winds increase in velocity and weather conditions deteriorate.

Reefing a mainsail

  • Go on to a beam or broad reach
  • Release the main sheet and let the main luff
  • Let out the boom vang
  • Drop the main to the desired reef points using the main halyard
  • Attach the cringle near the luff of the sail to the hook on the windward side
  • Adjust reef line to create outhaul tension
  • Secure main using the reef points with reef knots so the sail doesn’t flap
  • Hoist main halyard to trim and create a new foot of the mainsail

Reduce genoa sail area

  • Turn into the wind
  • Partially roller furl the sail
  • Move the fairleads forward

Boating Tip #38: Mooring

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Double Point Mooring @ Catalina Island
Instead of anchoring, your boat can be attached to fixed underwater ballast and secured in
place, or “moored”. Each double point mooring (or also called fore and aft moorings)
consists of a mooring ball, wand (pick-up pole), chains, lines, and two concrete anchor weights
for ballast – one at the bow and one at the stern. Each weight is attached to a chain and then
a large diameter line. The lines are then attached to the boatʼs cleats at the bow and stern to
hold the boat in place. This is a different system from the more commonly found single point
moorings that only secure the boat at the bow, and allows the boat to swing.

Picking Up a Mooring
• From the bow of the boat, pick up the wand.
• Pull in the small diameter line attached to the wand until a larger diameter loop in the
mooring line (bow hawser) appears.
• Reach under your lifelines (if any) and attach the loop to the bow cleat or other secure
deck fitting.
• Continue to pull on the smaller (slimy) sand line that is attached to the bow hawser and
quickly walk toward the stern of the boat. The sand line connects the bow and stern
hawsers. The sand line is sometimes referred to as the slime line or spreader line.
• Continue to pull on the sand line until you see the larger diameter stern hawser. Attach
the second loop (stern hawser) or the sand line itself to the stern cleat. Make sure you
pull the hawser under, rather than over your lifelines.
• Drop the sand line back into the water.
• Check the stern line tension
• If it is too tight, it will be difficult to release and may cause the weights to drag
• If it is too loose, the boat will move with the water and may drift and collide with a
neighboring boat
• For security purposes and to prevent the bow hawser from accidentally falling off the
cleat, use a small diameter line to tie a cleat hitch over the hawser.
• Check and adjust the lines with the tide, if necessary. For ease of adjustment, tie a
spare dock line to the stern hawser and cleat off the dock line on your boat. This will
make it easier to pull in or let out line when the tide changes.
• Secure the wand on your boat where it wonʼt get stepped on and broken, or throw it
back in the water where it will float next to your boat.

Leaving a Mooring
• Make sure the engine is in “neutral”.
• Remove the stern hawser first, then bow hawser from the boatʼs cleats and drop them
into the water.
• Allow lines to sink clear of the propeller before shifting into gear and moving.

Double Point Moorning at Catalina Island- image

Boating Tip #37: Heave To

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Heaving to is a way of “pulling over” in deep water when anchoring is not possible, stopping while under sail, or taking time out from sailing in order to rest. Sailors sometimes heavy to during storms, to wait for sunlight or for fog to lift before trying to enter an unfamiliar harbor, or to rest while single handling or sailing short handed. While heaving to, the wind acts on the sails in a way that causes them to counteract each other, preventing the vessel from making way.

To heave to:

  • Reduce jib / genoa sail area by partially furling the sail.
  • Slow down.
  • While sailing close hauled, come about through the eye of the wind slowly.
  • Release and ease out the main sheet until it luffs.
  • Do not release the jib sheet. After tacking it will be sheeted on the windward side.
  • The mainsail will move to leeward as normal. Sheet it in to balance the boat.
  • Turn the wheel all the way over to windward slowly to avoid driving the boat back through the eye of the wind. Lock the wheel. (Or if steering with a tiller, push the tiller to leeward).
  • To encourage the bow of a fin keel boat to round up and point more upwind, pull in the main sail a little bit.
  • The boat will, more or less, stay in place because the mainsail aft of the mast and rudder are pushing to windward and the jib is pushing the bow to leeward.
  • Ideally, the boat will ride 45° – 55° off the swell and will drift slowly down wind or with the current.

Boating Tip #36: Fire Extinguishers

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Fuel + Heat + Oxygen = FIRE

Class Use Water Dry Chemical Carbon Dioxide Foam Fog
Removes heat by cooling Stops chemical reaction Dilutes oxygen Smothers Moisture absorbs heat
A Common combustible materials (wood, cloth, paper, rubber) Best choice Good choice, but aim at base of fire Good choice Good choice – separates the O2 from the fuel Good choice – will cool area so you can get in close to fight the fire
B Flammable liquids & gasses (gas, oil, propane, petroleum products) Will spread flame Good choice, but possibility of reflash Good choice but requires a large quantity of CO2 Best choice, except for use on alcohol Good choice
C
Stop current flow first
Energized electrical equipment (wiring, appliances, lighting, RADAR) Poor choice Good choice, but possibility of reflash, and fine powder residue will damage electronic equipment Best choice after Halon Poor choice Not recommended – use only as a last resort
D Combustible materials (magnesium, aluminum, titanium) Will explode Not effective Not effective Not effective Will explode

You must carry U.S. Coast Guard approved fire extinguishers aboard in sufficient quantity and of the specified type, according to the following chart:

Boat Length # of Extinguishers Type of Extinguisher
Less than 26 feet 1 B – I
26 feet to less than 40 feet 2 or
1
B – I or
B – II
40 feet to 65 feet 3 or
1 + 1
B – I or
B – I and B – II

Class BC and ABC dry chemical fire extinguishers are the type most commonly carried aboard small recreational vessels, to put out fuel and electrical fires. The Roman numerals I and II indicate the size of the extinguisher.

Make sure everyone aboard knows the location of all fire extinguishers. Keep the extinguishers in plain sight. Post a diagram of where the extinguishers are located.

Know how to use your portable fire extinguishers. Read the instructions. To use an extinguisher: pull the pin, aim at the base of the fire, squeeze the handle, and sweep from side to side using short bursts.

Examine the extinguishers regularly. Check the pressure level and for signs of leakage. Invert or shake the extinguisher several times to prevent dry chemicals from becoming compacted and sticking to the bottom of the extinguisher. Do not test the extinguisher to see if it works. After using an extinguisher, have it recharged before using it again.

Boating Tip #35: Coming About & Jibing

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Coming About

Coming about, or tacking up into the wind, means to change course by moving the bow of the boat through the wind, to the same position on the opposite tack. To come about:

  • Check your course and speed, and look around for traffic. Make sure your path is clear.
  • Bring the boat into a close hauled position.
  • Pick a new course approximately 100° from your present course. If possible, point to an object on shore which is off your beam, to give you something to aim for.
  • Announce “Prepare to come about”.
  • Bring in the main sheet. Wind the lazy jib sheet around the winch.
  • Announce “Hard a–lee”, and turn the wheel toward the wind (or push the tiller into the lee of the wind).
  • When the boom crosses over, unwind the working jib sheet and pull in the lazy sheet, which will now become the new working sheet.
  • Turn 100° to a close reach, then head up into a close hauled position.
  • Adjust your course and heading. Trim the sails.

Jibing

Jibing, or gybing, is the opposite of coming about. An intentional jibe is used when sailing with the wind aft. Instead of coming about through the wind, you change course by moving the stern of the boat through the wind, to the same position on the opposite tack. To jibe:

  • Bring the boat into broad reach within 10° of a dead downwind run.
  • Announce “Ready to jibe”.
  • Sheet in the mainsail.
  • Wind the lazy jib sheet around winch.
  • Announce Jibe ho”, and turn the wheel away from the wind (or push the tiller to windward).
  • When the boom crosses over, unwind the working jib sheet and pull in the lazy sheet, which will now become the new working sheet.
  • Adjust the sheets as the sails snap to the new position.

Boating Tip #34: Packing List for Overnight Sailing Trips

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Pack everything in soft sided luggage or a duffel bag. Remember that storage space is extremely limited on a sailboat. Whatever you bring along is going to share your bunk.

  • Sleeping bag or blanket
  • Pillow
  • Toiletries
  • Sunscreen
  • Dramamine (or whatever keeps you from getting seasick)
  • Clothes: shorts, T–shirts, long pants, long sleeved T–shirt, undies, something to sleep in, sweat shirt or fleece
  • Foul weather gear
  • Gloves (sailing gloves and gloves for warmth)
  • White soled sneakers or deck shoes (2 pairs – 1 is bound to get wet)
  • Jacket
  • Hats (1 for sun protection and 1 for warmth)
  • Bathing suit, goggles
  • Wet suit or Lycra dive skins
  • Towels (1 for showering, 1 for the beach)
  • Camera, film, video camera
  • CDs, DVDs, Walkman, MP3, iPod
  • Books to read
  • Cash, credit cards, automatic teller bank card, ID
  • Earplugs
  • Eyeshades
  • Sunglasses
  • Eyeglasses, contacts, reading glasses (and an extra pair)
  • Small flashlight
  • Alarm clock
  • Small waterproof bag for carting clothes and items to shore
  • Cell phone and charger
  • Satellite phone
  • Navigation gear: charts, GPS, compass, dividers, plotter, pencils & erasers
  • PFD, extra cartridges for auto inflated PFDs
  • Harness, tether
  • Kites, beach toys
  • Laptop computer, iPad
  • Laundry bag
  • Water bottle, thermos
  • Handheld GPS,VHF, PLB, SPOT

Optional:

  • SCUBA or snorkeling gear, C–cards
  • Fishing tackle, fishing license

Boating Tip #33: Man Overboard (MOB)

Download Boating Tip #33: Man Overboard (MOB) (PDF format, 36KB)

Prevent a MOB situation from occurring in the first place by remembering “one hand for the boat, and one hand for yourself.” Wear non-skid shoes while sailing. In rough weather, or when sailing at night, wear a safety harness and tether yourself to a jackline or other secure point as you move about topside. Make sure your lifelines are secure and well maintained. Implement a policy that no one leaves the cockpit to move forward on the deck unless a second crew member is alerted to the fact and is watching from the cockpit.

Be prepared and know what to do when someone falls overboard. Have a written, rehearsed emergency action plan. Routinely practice your MOB recovery drills. Knowing what to do in an emergency may be the difference between a successful recovery, and tragedy. Most importantly, don’t panic.

When someone falls overboard act quickly to keep the boat close and avoid losing sight of the victim:

  • Yell MOB and alert crew to the MOB situation. Get all hands on deck.
  • Throw buoyant objects in the water and get buoyancy to the victim. Throw any floatable objects into water – litter the sea to make it easier to relocate the spot where the victim went overboard. Throw the Lifesling® in the water and trail it behind the boat. Or, release the pins or keepers and throw the horseshoe buoy / ring buoy and floating strobe light, and the MOB pole in the water (in that order). Or, activate the man overboard module (MOM).
  • Do not lose sight of the victim. Assign a spotter, with no other duties to perform, to keep the victim in sight and point at the victim in the water.
  • Press the MOB button on the GPS or chart plotter. Latitude and longitude will be recorded and the receiver will automatically display a course back to the MOB location.
  • Use the VHF radio and issue a Pan – Pan radio call on channel 16 to alert the USCG and other boats in the vicinity that you have an emergency situation in progress.
  • If you are flying a spinnaker, head into the wind, let the spinnaker halyard run free, douse the spinnaker, sheet in the main and beat back to the MOB, or turn on the engine and motor back to the MOB.
  • If you are using a whisker pole, release the genoa sheet and beat back to the MOB, or turn on the engine and motor back to the MOB.
  • Maneuver the boat back to the victim using the MOB recovery method most appropriate for the situation.

MOB Recovery Methods:

Quick-stop recovery

  • Bring the boat into the wind and trim the mainsail to close hauled.
  • Turn through the wind without releasing or easing the headsail.
  • Continue turning until the wind is almost astern.
  • When the victim is abaft of the beam, furl the headsail.
  • Jibe the boat.
  • Turn up directly into the wind and steer toward the victim, loosen sheets, back or furl sails to slow to a stop for rescue.

Quick-turn (figure-8) recovery

  • Head onto a beam reach and sail 4 – 7 boat lengths away from the MOB (shorter distance in rough seas).
  • Come about onto a beam then broad reach, and sail until parallel and downwind of the MOB.
  • Turn up directly into the wind and steer toward the victim, loosen sheets, back or furl sails to slow to a stop for rescue.

Lifesling® recovery

  • Head into the wind, let the sails luff, and stop the boat
  • Deploy the Lifesling® by opening the case, throwing the flotation collar over the transom, and let the floating, yellow polypropylene line trail out behind the boat.
  • While still headed into the wind, trim the mainsail to close hauled. Tack and continue turning without easing the headsail. Allow the headsail to backwind. Jibe. Continue to sail or motor in a wide circle while trailing the Lifesling® as if you were trying to pick up a waterskier. Don’t run over the Lifesling® or the trailing line. The circular motion of the boat will cause the Lifesling® and line to be drawn inward toward the victim.
  • The victim grabs the line, puts the Lifesling® over his/her head and under his/her arms. Clip the buckles (next to the D rings or towing loops) together.
  • Bring the boat into the wind, and furl or drop sails to stop the boat immediately. Turn off the motor. Do not tow the victim while he/she is secured in the Lifesling®.

Under power recovery

  • Before turning on the engine and using auxiliary power to get back to the MOB, check for lines trailing in the water that could foul the prop.
  • Shift into neutral and start the engine.
  • Shift into forward gear, and motor toward the victim.
  • Head into the wind and approach the victim at a very slow speed.
  • Stop the boat alongside the victim. Turn up directly into the wind, loosen sheets, luff or furl sails to slow to a stop for rescue.
  • Make contact with and secure the victim. Once contact is made with the victim and he/she is being pulled toward the boat, turn off the engine and drift (to avoid prop injuries or carbon monoxide poisoning).
  • Get the victim back on board. Avoid getting into the water yourself. Lower the boat ladder. If the victim is not injured, help him/her climb back on board using the ladder or transom boarding platform.
  • A MOB victim may not be able to assist in his/her recovery because of unconsciousness, exhaustion, hypothermia or injury. If the victim cannot climb back aboard unassisted, bring the MOB on board using brute force, a Lifesling® and hoisting gear, mainsail dipped into the water, or dinghy transfer.

Hoisting gear:

Lifesling® used with halyard, block and tackle, fairlead and winch

  • Pull the MOB alongside, preferably on the windward side of the boat, so the boat does not run over the victim. Have the victim face the boat and rest on his back. Pull the victim up high onto the side of the boat. Tie the Lifesling® retrieval line to a cleat.
  • Attach the carabiner or snap shackle on the end of the block and tackle to the stainless steel D rings or the loop in the Lifesling® retrieval line. Make sure the block and tackle are connected to the Lifesling® outside of the sailboat’s lifelines.
  • Attach the other end of the block and tackle to the main halyard and raise the block at least ten feet above the deck, to clear the lifelines and give yourself a mechanical advantage in lifting the MOB on board. Secure the halyard. Run the tail of the tackle (fall line) down from the block, through a fairlead and to a winch (or the anchor windlass). Winch the MOB on board.

Lifesling® used with halyard, and Swiss Tech Mastlift®

  • Pull the MOB alongside, preferably on the windward side of the boat, so the boat does not run over the victim. Have the victim face the boat and rest on his back. Pull the victim up high onto the side of the boat. Tie the Lifesling® retrieval line to a cleat.
  • Push the black knob to disengage the brake while at the same time pulling out about 15 feet of the load-bearing lift line. Release the knob and pull on the load-bearing lift line to re-engage the brake. Attach the halyard to the Mastlift® top ring bolt. Raise the Mastlift® at least ten feet above the deck, to clear the lifelines. Attach the thimble at the end of the load bearing line to the loop in the Lifesling® retrieval line. Pull down on the endless line to lift the MOB on board.

If you fall overboard, make sure someone aboard knows you are no longer on the boat. Make noise, yell, blow your whistle, wave your arms and call attention to yourself. Activate your strobe light or laser flare. In daylight, use your signal mirror. If you are carrying a personal locator beacon, turn it on. If you are carrying a portable VHF radio, make a Mayday call, and attempt to contact your boat.

Conserve energy and heat. Survival float and make only slow easy movements. In cold water, try to keep your head out of the water and get in to a heat escape lessening position by tucking in your legs and bringing your arms in close to your body and across your chest. Keep your clothes on and use them to help you stay afloat by trapping air in the wet clothing.

If you see a MOB pole or strobe light, swim towards it and find the attached ring buoy or horseshoe buoy and use it to help you stay afloat. If a Lifesling® reaches you, grab the line, and put the Lifesling® over your head and under your arms. If a heaving line is thrown toward you, grab the line and tie it around your upper body using a bowline.

As the rescue boat approaches you, make sure you can be seen so you are not run over. Make sure the engine has been turned off before you attempt to board the boat. Be careful if trying to board from the stern ladder – a pitching boat in large seas can be hazardous. If you are injured or disabled, ask for help and assist with your recovery in anyway you can without causing further inuring to yourself.

Boating Tip #32: Honda 2 hp Outboard Operation

Download Boating Tip #32: Honda 2 hp Outboard Operation (PDF format, 33KB)

To START the Engine:

  • Perform a brief safety and maintenance inspection.
  • Make sure the outboard motor is properly installed on the dinghy transom and that clamp screws are tightened.
  • Check the fuel level in the tank. If the fuel level is low, fill the tank with regular unleaded gasoline.
  • Put the emergency stop switch clip in the engine stop switch and attach the other end of the lanyard to your PFD.
  • Open the fuel tank vent counterclockwise a couple of turns.
  • Move the fuel lever valve to the ON position.
  • Move the throttle grip to the START position.
  • Pull the choke knob to the CLOSED position when starting a cold engine. (Move the choke knob to the OPEN position when restarting a warm engine.)
  • Pull the recoil starter grip.
  • Allow the engine to warm up and gradually push the choke knob into the OPEN position.
  • Steer by moving the tiller handle in the opposite direction you want the boat to turn.
  • If necessary, trim the angle of the outboard to compensate for weight, water or wind conditions.
  • If after sunset, turn on the navigation lights.

To STOP the Engine:

  • Pull on the lanyard and pull the clip out of the engine stop switch. (Or, move the throttle grip lever to the SLOW position, and push and hold down the engine stop button until the engine stops).
  • Move the fuel valve lever to the OFF position.
  • Close the fuel tank vent clockwise.

To Operate the Engine in REVERSE:

  • Move the throttle grip to the SLOW position.
  • Turn the outboard 180° and pivot the tiller handle so it faces you.

To TOW the Dinghy ASTERN:

  • Attach a sailboat halyard to the outboard.
  • Loosen the clamp screws from the dinghy transom.
  • Remove the outboard from the dinghy by manually lifting it away from the transom and hoisting it using the halyard and winch. Lift the outboard to a position above the sailboat lifelines.
  • Guide the outboard to the rail mounted bracket on the sailboat. Secure it to the bracket by tightening the clam screws clockwise.
  • Secure the clamp screws with plastic zip ties.
  • Tie the dinghy tow line (hawser) to the sailboat and tow SHORT while leaving the slip, anchorage or mooring, or while in astern propulsion.
  • After clearing the marina, anchorage or mooring, and in open water free of obstructions, let out the hawser and tow LONG. To reduce shock stress on the towing hawser, make sure there is enough catenary so the line dips into the water. Let out enough line so that both vessels are in step and reach a wave crest or trough at the same time.
  • Make sure bridle legs are of equal lengths.
  • To reduce yaw, use longer bridle legs.

Outboard Stats Honda 2 hp outboard BF2

Type: 4–stroke OHV, 1 cylinder / 2 valves
Displacement: 57 cc (3.4 in3)
Bore & stroke: 1.8 x 1.4 inches
Full throttle range: 5000 – 6000 rpms
Rated power: 2 hp @ 5500 rpm
Cooling system: Forced air
Fuel delivery: 1 carburetor
Ignition system: Transistorized pointless
Starting system: Recoil
Exhaust: Underwater and above propeller
Gear ratio: 2.4:1
Gear shift: 360° pivot
Propeller: 3–blade plastic, 7.25″ diameter x 4.75″ pitch
Dry weight: 28 pounds