Download Pool Tip #42: Fecal Accidents, Vomit, Dead Animals Clean-Up Procedures (PDF format, 40KB)Download Pool Tip #42a: Fecal Accident Log (PDF format, 25KB)

Feces – Formed Stool, or Vomitus Clean–Up

• Have everyone exit the pool
• Remove the fecal matter from the pool and dispose of matter in an approved manner –– do not use an in–line vacuum system
• Disinfect the skimmer net or vacuum used to remove the fecal matter
• Raise the free available chlorine level to 2.0 ppm and maintain for at least 25 minutes to inactivate the pathogen –– longer if the water is stabilized
• Maintain pH between 7.2 and 7.5
• Continue filtration and uniform circulation
• Log the incident and clean–up procedures

Diarrhea or Dead Animal Clean–Up

• Have everyone exit the pool
• Remove the fecal matter from the pool and dispose of matter in an approved manner –– do not use an in–line vacuum system
• Disinfect the skimmer net or vacuum used to remove the fecal matter
• Raise the free available chlorine level to 20 ppm FAC, and maintain for at least 12 hours and 45 minutes (765 minutes x 20 ppm = 15,300 CT) to inactivate the pathogen –– longer if water is stabilized
• Maintain pH between 7.2 and 7.5
• Continue filtration and uniform circulation
• Backwash the filters and/or replace filter media or elements prior to reopening the pool
• Reduce the FAC level to less than 5 ppm
• Log the incident and clean–up procedures

Download Pool Tip #41: Rescue Equipment (PDF format, 54KB)

Certain items of pool rescue, safety and first–aid equipment must be available for emergency use at public pools. Equipment rescues are recommended over direct body contact rescues for safety reasons. If it is necessary to enter the water to make a swimming rescue, a rescuer should always keep the equipment between himself, or herself, and the victim.

Most rescue equipment needs very little maintenance, but the manufacturer’s recommendations for care and cleaning should be followed. The equipment should be inspected daily for wear or breakage, and to make sure it’s in good repair. The equipment should not be used for play, or for purposes for which it was not designed or intended. All rescue equipment should be stored so it’s immediately accessible and available for use in an emergency.

Safety Equipment Found at Most Pools

Ring buoys Rescue tubes
Shepherd’s crooks
Spine board, straps, head immobilizer
Lifeguard chairs
First–aid kit
Biohazard kit
Oxygen
AED
Emergency telephone
Fire extinguishers

Rescue Tubes

Rescue tubes are made of flexible ensolite foam covered with a vinyl skin, usually in red, yellow or international orange. The tubes measure approximately 6 by 3 inches thick, by 40 to 48 inches in length. A polypropylene line or webbed material towline and nylon shoulder strap are attached to the tube at one end. On some tubes, brass or plastic fittings or hooks are attached to the end of the tube opposite the towline so that the tube can be secured around a victim or rescuer, or thrown like a ring buoy.

Rescue tubes are very versatile and several methods can be used to rescue a victim using a rescue tube. A rescue tube can also be used to retrieve a submerged victim from the bottom of the pool.

Ring Buoys

Ring buoys are buoyant 17 to 24 inch diameter donut–shaped floats, usually white or international orange in color, and constructed of foam or other materials that will not rot or become waterlogged. They are sometimes improperly referred to as “lifesavers”. A floating polypropylene line, 3/8 to 1/2 inches thick, and of a length at least equal to half the width of the pool at its widest point should be attached to the ring buoy. The line should be neatly coiled and ready for immediate use in an emergency. Ring buoys are only effective when properly and accurately thrown at a conscious, distressed victim who is able to reach for and hold on to the ring while being pulled a short distance to safety.

To correctly throw a ring buoy, loosely hold the coiled heaving line in your left (or non dominant) hand. Place your left foot forward, and over the bitter (loose) end of the heaving line. Grasp the ring buoy in your right (or dominant) hand. Use an underhand throwing motion to toss the ring buoy in a straight line past the victim. Let the heaving line uncoil as you let go of the ring buoy. Pull the line until the ring buoy is within the victim’s grasp. If you miss the victim or throw wildly off course, quickly retrieve the line and throw again taking better aim and releasing at the proper time. Using a secure or locking grip, pull the victim toward you to safety.

Extension Poles & Shepherd’s Crooks

Extension poles are usually 12 to 16 feet in length, 1–1/4 inch in diameter, and made of anodized aluminum or fiberglass. The rubber tipped pole is used to extend the rescuer’s reach to a struggling, distressed (but not drowning) victim.

Aim the extension pole down into the water and toward the victim’s chest. Make sure your stance is wide and your center of gravity is low over the deck so the victim doesn’t accidentally pull you into the water when he grabs onto the pole. Use an arm over arm motion on the pole to pull the victim the short distance to the side of the pool and safety.

An extension pole can be made into a shepherd’s crook by adding a detachable, blunt ended or rounded hook at one end. The crook is used to grasp a conscious or an unconscious victim floating on or below the surface of the water. Extend the pole attached to the shepherd’s crook in the same way you would extend an extension pole. Retrieve the victim by carefully wrapping the hook around the victim’s upper body. Use an arm over arm motion on the pole to pull the victim to safety. Be careful not to further injure an unconscious victim by pulling him into the pool wall.

Backboard

A spineboard constructed of coated marine plywood, lightweight plastic with a foam core, or aluminum should be available at each facility. The board should be at least six feet in length, and at least eighteen inches wide. Holes should be spaced every few inches along the length of both sides of the board in order to provide handholds and a place to secure restraining straps. Runners should be attached to, and run the length of the bottom of the board to make sliding the victim out of the pool easier and smoother and save the rescuers’ fingers when placing the weighted board down on the deck.

Rigid cervical collars in the full range of sizes from “thick neck” to “pediatric” should be available if recommended by the local EMS authority and rescuers must be trained and practiced in their use. A head immobilizer made of thick foam with Velcro attachments and straps is used to help prevent movement of the victim’s head and cervical spinal column while secured to the board.

A minimum of six straps for securing victim’s body to the board with Velcro attachments or quick release plastic or stainless buckles should be inspected for wear, untangled and stored in a way so that they are ready to use when needed.

First Aid Kit

A standard cabinet–type 24–unit first aid kit should be located in the pool area. Or, if lifeguards or attendants are not present at the pool, a sign should be posted directing guests to the location of the first aid kit.

Contents of the first aid kit should be checked daily to make sure the kit is well stocked. Supplies in the kit should be arranged so that the desired item can be found quickly and without handling and contaminating unneeded items.

Biohazard kits, supplemental oxygen, and automatic external defibrillators should also be available.

Federal regulations require that pools have a designated first aid room on the premises. The room should be kept exceptionally clean, be well lit and ventilated, and provide privacy for the victim. The first aid station should be large enough to permit unrestricted movement of both the victim and first aiders, while holding a cot, blankets, small table, two chairs, biohazard bags, sharps container, sink, soap, and first aid supplies. Activities conducted in the room must be permitted by OSHA CFR 29 1910.1030 (no eating, drinking, inserting contacts, applying lip gloss…)

Lifeguard Chairs

Lifeguard chairs are usually elevated over the pool deck to enable a lifeguard stationed in the chair to see a larger area of the pool than possible from deck level. Guarding from an elevated position helps eliminate “blind spots” and permits the guard to better see below the surface of the water.

Guard chairs can be stationary or portable. Portable guard chairs allow guards the convenience of moving the chair to an area of the pool needing more supervision, and out of the distracting rays of the sun or glare.

Select guard chairs that comply with OSHA elevated platform requirements as described in 29 CFR 1910.23. The chairs should be ergonomically designed to help keep the guard alert, but comfortable . Select stands with wide bases so the lifeguard can guard from a standing as well as sitting position, and does not have to swing out over the deck to get into the chair.

Ladder bolts should be checked regularly for wear and to make sure the treads are secure. A means of attaching umbrellas or other devices to protect guards from the sun should be available. A shelf or hooks should be attached to the stand for securing rescue equipment, but should be located in a way that they do not block the guard’s view or become a hazard in an emergency.

Fire Extinguishers

BC fire extinguishers should be available on the pool premises and in the pool mechanical room. However, never use the fire extinguisher to attempt to put out pool chemical fires –– chemicals in fire extinguishers may only make things worse.

Even using water to put out a small pool chemical fire is dangerous, because of the fumes. In case of a pool chemical fire, call the fire department at once. Trained professionals wearing appropriate protective gear should deal with the fire before it spreads or gets out of control.

Inspect fire extinguishers on a yearly basis, and always recharge them immediately after use.

Automatic External Defibrillators

Automatic External Defibrillators (AEDs) analyze heart rhythms and detect ventricular fibrillations, and ventricular tachycardia and will advise and deliver three stacked shocks. An AED is a class II medical devise and is always used with supervision of a medical doctor. AEDs follow cardiac protocol from the American Heart Association.

There are 450,000 deaths a year from sudden cardiac arrest, and 2/3 occur outside of hospitals. The national survival rate with CPR alone is 1–5%. Statistics show a 33% – 74% success rate if an AED is there within 3 – 5 minutes.

The goal is to get AEDS in the hands of public. The Cardiac Arrest Survival Act, placed AEDs in federal buildings and expanded Good Sam laws. Good Samaritan laws vary, but in most cases you must have a prescription from a medical director in order to purchase and use an AED. There is a new Pennsylvania court case that says you should have an AED anywhere there is a foreseeable need. Right now less than 50% of private ambulances carry AEDs, less than 15% of fire service vehicles carry AEDs, and 2% of police cars carry AEDs.

Tests have shown that it is easier to use AEDs than to do CPR. A test with 6th graders showed they could follow directions and properly use an AED only 20 seconds slower than trained emergency personnel.

AEDs are “pretty much failsafe”. The FDA standard requires that you use an AED only on an unconscious, non breathing, pulse less, victim. AHA protocol does not recommend that you use AEDs for monitoring on a conscious victim in cardiac tachycardia, but some new models do have monitoring screens to safely monitor heart rhythm. You may have to temporarily stop CPR to shave the chest hair of someone who is really hairy. A razor and extra pads are included with most AEDs. With some AED models, it is not recommended that you attempt to defibrillate someone in a moving vehicle or on a boat.

Ellis & Associates, YMCA, and the American Red Cross and Starguard all are recommending, and some agencies are mandating, AEDs at their aquatic facilities. Training is readily available. Most CPR instructors can now teach use of AEDs. Prices are going down now that there are more manufacturers. Average cost is around $3,000, but some models now sell for under $2,000.

It is recommended that AEDs be stored in an alarmed wall case, which can be wired into 911. Audible alarms and strobe lights which can’t be turned off without a key can be added for extra security.

There are a few special precautions for use of AEDs in an aquatic environment. Since electricity and water don’t mix, rescuers should be reminded to get the victim out of the water, wipe down the victim’s chest, and place them on a dry deck on a backboard before defibrillating.

Emergency Telephones

To avoid delays in obtaining assistance, install a special emergency telephone on the pool deck. Signage instructing members or guests on how to obtain assistance in an emergency should be developed and posted.

Emergency phone numbers should be posted in close proximity to the phone

Directions to the facility and other pertinent information to be conveyed to the EMS operator should be attached or posted on the phone itself.

Download Pool Tip #40: Cloudy Pool Water (PDF format, 72KB)

When pool water appears cloudy or milky, and a fine white precipitate settles out after peak use periods, check the following items:

Turnover rate

Make sure that the normal flowrate is being maintained, and that an obstruction or pump impeller damage due to cavitation is not restricting the amount of water moving through the filters.

Filter Valves

Make sure that all valves are open or in the correct position to allow water to move through the filters.

Broken Laterals

Check the bottom of the swimming pool first thing in the morning before the water has been agitated and look for regular deposits of filter media near the return inlets. Isolate individual filter tanks from the bank to try to determine which laterals have broken. Remove the filter media and inspect the laterals at the bottom of the tank, and replace those which have broken.

Fines

If filters are not backwashed properly and for an adequate amount of time, fine particles start to work their way down into the filter bed. Eventually fines are carried into the laterals and back into the pool. On filter systems with automatic backwash valves, make sure that booster pumps are bringing the pressure up to 50 psi during the backwash process.

Channeling and Mudball Formation

Open the filter tank and observe, dig with a trowel or poke (being careful not to damage the filter tank or components) and look for: flatness of the media bed, channeling (holes), biofilms on the tank walls, media migration, and contamination caused by improper backwashing or improper chemical balance.

Perform a settling test to determine the make-up of the filter bed. Take a large glass jar (like a mayonnaise jar) and fill it with 2 cups of water. Add 1 cup of media from your filter. Add 1 teaspoon of dishwasher detergent or Calgon water softener. Replace the jar lid and shake. Allow the solution to settle overnight. The sample should settle into a layer of sand with water on top. If instead, it settles into layers with the sand on the bottom, silty material above the sand layer, and an organic layer on top, replace the filter media in the tanks.

Clean the sand media inside the filter tank by adding a commercial sand cleaning solution or sodium bisulfate. Mudballs and channels which form inside the sand should be destroyed.

Mudball formation is caused by calcium scale, organic debris, detergents, oils, and bather waste products. These oily products reduce sanitizer effectiveness, promote bacterial growth, and cloud water. In addition to forming scum lines at the water surface, they may also clog cartridge filters and diatomaceous earth filter elements, and contribute to mudball formation in sand filters causing reduced filter effectiveness.

The use of enzymes or absorbent foam products is recommended to help prevent these problems from occurring in the first place.

Enzymes are catalysts that start or speed up chemical reactions. Enzymes are protein-like substances that form naturally in animal and plant cells, but today, synthetic enzymes have been developed. Enzymes slowly, over several days, digest and destroy oils in pool water by converting them to carbon dioxide and water. A similar process is used to clean up oil spills that occur in the ocean. An initial dose of one to two ounces of enzyme per 1,000 gallons of pool water is recommended and then maintenance doses of about half that amount should be added to the pool on a weekly basis.

Absorbent foam products can also be used to physically remove oils from the water. Manufacturers of the products say the patented molecular structure and cell design of the foam allows it to absorb many times its own weight in oil. When the foam is saturated with oil, it turns a dark color, becomes heavy and sinks. The foam can be replaced, or for a period of time can be cleaned and reused by removing the absorbent foam from the pool skimmer, hair and lint strainer or filter tank, squeezing out the oils and replacing it in its hidden location.

Filters Not Properly Sized

Make sure that the filters are properly sized. If water is allowed to flow through the media at a rate higher than that recommended by the manufacturer and NSF International, debris will pass right through without being removed. To determine needed filter size, calculate the square footage of each filter tank (or look on the permanently affixed plate on the front of the filter). Take the flowrate in gallons per minute (gpm) and divide by the design flow rate for the particular tank using the same media. The total media square footage should exceed this number.

For example, a pool with a flowrate of 1,000 gpm, is being filtered with a bank of 4 horizontal high rate sand filters each with 13.5 square feet of #20 silica sand filter media for a total of 54 square feet of media. The design flow rate is a minimum 15 gpm/ft2 (with 12 gpm/ft2 recommended). One thousand gpm divided by 15 gpm/ft2 equals 66.6 ft2. The filters are considerably undersized, and water is likely to be cloudy during periods of heavy use.

High TDS

Use a TDS meter to determine the level of total dissolved solids. Regular dilution is recommended at a rate of 8 gallons per pool user per day. If TDS levels exceed 1,500 ppm and are causing problems with taste, clarity, ability to maintain ORP levels, dilute significantly, or drain and refill the pool with fresh water.

Infrequent Vacuuming

Make sure the pool is routinely being vacuumed on a daily basis, first thing in the morning, or after a period of quiescence of at least 2 hours, to allow debris which is heavier than water to settle on the bottom of the pool. Check that portable or robotic pool vacuum filters are being disinfected and cleaned properly.

High Cyanuric Acid Levels

Do not use cyanuric acid or chlorinated isocyanurates in indoor pools, or in outdoor pools and spas with extremely high organic loading problems. If cyanurates are used to prevent loss of chlorine and dissipation into the air due to exposure to ultraviolet light, use in moderation. Keep cyanuric acid levels in the 10 ppm – 20 ppm range since 95% of the staying power benefit is achieved in that range, and the negative effects on pathogenic organism kill time, and depression of ORP are still within an acceptable range.

Unbalanced and Oversaturated Water

Since water is the universal solvent, all things will inevitably dissolve in water until the water becomes saturated. Eventually, water will become unbalanced or oversaturated, and excess products will be lost by precipitation. Well balanced water will increase bather comfort and will dramatically extend the life expectancy of the pool and its components.

Water temperature, pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and total dissolved solids act together to cause corrosiveness or calcification qualities of water. The Langelier Saturation Index formula and chart can be used to determine if pool water is balanced– that is, neither aggressive nor oversaturated. Saturation index equals pH plus the alkalinity factor, plus the calcium hardness factor plus the temperature factor minus the TDS factor. Use your test kit and testing instruments to find each of the five values. Write down the actual pH value found. Then for the remaining four values, find the corresponding factor on the chart. Add or subtract the factors to or from the pH value. If an actual value is not found on the saturation index chart, do not interpolate–there is no direct linear relationship between the values. Rather, move to the next higher value and use its factor.

SI = pH + alkalinity factor + calcium hardness factor + temperature factor – TDS factor

If the sum obtained is zero, the water is balanced and chemical equilibrium has been achieved. A tolerance of plus or minus 0.3 is allowable for commercial swimming pools. Negative values indicate corrosive water, while positive values indicate likely calcification and scale formation.

Corrosive, or under saturated, water is aggressive and will cause circulation pipes, heater elements, and other metal components of the pool to corrode. Pool wall surface materials will deteriorate. Plaster will soften and etch, vinyl liners will become brittle, metal staining will increase, and tiles will become loose and begin popping off the walls.

If the water is oversaturated, calcium carbonate will begin to settle out of the water. Water will become cloudy and take on a “milky” appearance. Scale will build up on solid surfaces, making the surfaces rough, and discoloring dark surfaces (like colored tiles or black bottom pools). Calcium carbonate scale will also build up on the interior surfaces of the pool recirculation pipes causing a condition similar to “hardening of the arteries”. Water flow will be restricted and pressure will increase. Sanitizer effectiveness will be reduced, and algae growth may increase.

If the saturation index formula indicates that the pool water is not balanced, make the appropriate chemical corrections, starting with total alkalinity, then followed by pH, temperature, calcium hardness, and TDS.

Chemicals Added to the Water in too Great a Quantity In too Short a Period of Time

With the exception of chlorine, pool chemicals should be added to the pool gradually in small quantities over an extended period of time. Predissolve solid, granulated or powdered chemicals prior to their addition. Try to limit chemical additions to 10 ppm changes at a time.

Algae Bloom

Algae is a waterborne plant introduced into pools by swimmers, make-up water, rain, wind and windborne debris. Although algae in and of itself is not harmful to swimmers, it does cause problems when allowed to grow in a swimming pool. Algae gradually removes carbon dioxide from the water in order to manufacture food, and may cause a dramatic rise in pH. Pool water may become turbid, cloudy, or discolored. Pool surfaces can become slippery from a noticeable algae growth on the pool bottom or walls. Algae is a higher organism that may harbor pathogens or disease causing bacteria. Chlorine demand may be high as chlorine is used in an attempt to kill or control algae growth. Pools filled with algae may give off unpleasant odors.

To control algae growth, maintain adequate chlorine and ORP (oxidation reduction potential) levels, keep the water circulating continuously, make sure you have a uniform circulation pattern and absence of dead spots in the pool, superchlorinate regularly, and scrub or brush pool walls to prevent algae from adhering. If water is not continuously circulated, sanitized and oxidized, you may need to use commercially prepared algaecides or algaestats to keep algae growth under control. Some algaecides are more effective against a particular type of algae, and some are more appropriate for use in pools or in spas.

If you continue to have serious algae problems, you may want to monitor nitrate levels more closely, and try to determine the source of contamination. Nitrates stimulate plant growth, and when high levels of nitrates (greater than 25 ppm) are present in pool water, uncontrolled algae growth often occurs even though unaccountably large amounts of chlorine are being used. Nitrates are introduced into pools from: fill water in areas where fertilizer has worked its way down into the ground water, contaminated reservoirs or wells, rain, fertilizers or grass blown into the pool from the adjoining landscaping, human or animal urine or fecal matter, and bird droppings. Pools located in agriculture areas, screened pools, and pools that border large bodies of water often experience nitrate problems. To lower pool nitrate levels, try shocking the pool with chlorine to over 30 ppm, or partially drain and refill the pool with water which is not contaminated with nitrates.

Dead Spots

Perform a dye test of pool circulation patterns to make sure that all inlets are operating properly. Note the inlet pattern, any inlets that don’t work, inlets where the water stream is weak, inlets pointed in the wrong direction, or inlets in need of adjustment.

Look for circulation “dead spots” or “weak spots” where the water does not change color, and record. If filtered, heated, chemically treated water is not being uniformly distributed to all areas of the pool, it is likely that algae will become established in the pool, and other water quality problems will develop.

Colloidal Particles

Colloids are particles smaller than 1 micron in size which are suspended in water. Colloids are small enough to pass through pool filters, too light to settle on the bottom of the pool, and make water murky or cloudy. Flocculants and clarifiers make colloidal (Koll-oyd-al) particles stick together or coagulate so that the particles become large enough to be filtered out or heavy enough to settle.

Although aluminum sulfate (alum) was the most common flocculant used in the past, today cellulose fiber or poly aluminum chloride are more common. The products are added directly to the filter bed and form a layer on top of or between the grains of sand media.

Clarifiers are biodegradable organic polymers usually made up of the natural polymer chitin often extracted from sea organisms. Positively charged repeating polymer links attract negatively charged colloidal particles. The electric charge is neutralized, and the polymer coils up into a large particle which can be filtered.

Excessively High Calcium Hardness Levels

If water is difficult to balance due to extremely high calcium hardness levels the use of sequestering or chelating agents is recommended.

Sequestering agents increase the ability of water to hold dissolved minerals or metals in solution. It is a preventative treatment. Sequestering agents keep minerals from: oxidizing and staining, causing scale build-up, precipitating (coming out of solution) calcium and magnesium salts when pH and water temperature rise, discoloring or clouding the water, attaching to and discoloring bathers’ hair.

Chelating agents (pronounced “key-lating”) remove metals or dissolved minerals from the water. They cure mineral staining problems. Organic water soluble molecules bond and react with metal ions to keep them from precipitating.

Heavy Bather Loads

To maintain clarity, keep the bather load to total filtered water (gallons/day) ratio at 1 bather : 1,400 gallons or less. The onset of turbidity is constant and related to the number of bathers, not just turnover time. If debris is added to the pool water faster than the filter can remove it, turbidity will increase. Debris is introduced into a pool through airborne dirt, dust, plant matter, and pollen; rain water, and bathers, but the greatest amount of debris is brought into the pool by bathers.

To determine maximum bather load:

Multiply flowrate (gpm) x 60 (minutes/hour) x 24 (hours/day) to get the total filtered gallons per day. Then, divide total filtered gallons per day by the constant 1,400 gallons to get the maximum number of bathers per day who can enter the pool before water clarity problems result.

To find the needed turnover time required at a given maximum bather load:

Multiple the actual number of bathers using the pool per day by the constant 1,400 to get total filtered gallons per day needed. Divide by 24 (hours/day), then divide by 60 (minutes/hour) to get the required flowrate in gpm. Divide the volume of the pool in gallons by the required flowrate to get the needed turnover time in minutes.

Download Pool Tip #39: Solar Panels (PDF format, 0KB)

There are primarily two types of active solar heating systems used to heat pool water – glazed and unglazed.

Glazed systems use black chrome–plated copper absorber plates with a low iron tempered glass covering. They can operate year ’round in harsh climates, but require transfer fluid and heat exchangers. A booster pump to lift water to panels installed on a roof may also be needed.

Unglazed systems are inexpensive for use in warm climates and outdoor seasonal pools. Black thermoplastic rubber or polypropylene absorber plates are utilized. Water circulates directly through collectors, using the pool pump, and two heat sensors connected to a solar controller. One sensor measures pool temperature, and the other measures temperature at the controller surface. If temperature differential is significant, the controller sends a signal to a motorized valve that closes and directs water through the collectors.

Pools that use solar panels as the sole means of heating pool water, or as an aid in reducing the cost of operating traditional fossil fuel heaters, can mount panels on a roof of the house, garage or adjacent structure; on a deck rack, or on the ground. Panels should not be placed where nearby trees or buildings will create shadows and the panels will wind up being in the shade part of the day. Ideally, panels should be installed so they face due south. But if installed within 15 degrees east or west of due south, the loss of performance will be insignificant.

For year round operations, angle the panels toward latitude. For instance in Southern California, panels should be set at an angle of 32 to 34 degrees north latitude. Pools in New England should set their solar panels to between 41 and 47 degree north, depending on their exact location. To take advantage of seasonal variations, pools operated only during the Summer months should angle panels at latitude minus 10 to 15 degrees. For Winter heating, place panels on a latitude plus 10 to 15 degree angle.

Download Pool Tip #38: Algae (PDF format, 41KB)

Algae is a waterborne plant introduced into pools by swimmers, make–up water, rain, wind and windborne debris. Although most types of algae are not harmful to swimmers, algae does cause problems when allowed to grow in a swimming pool. Algae gradually removes carbon dioxide from the water in order to manufacture food, and may cause a dramatic rise in pH. Pool water may become turbid, cloudy, or discolored. Pool surfaces can become slippery from a noticeable algae growth on the pool bottom or walls. Algae is a higher organism that may harbor pathogens or disease causing bacteria. Chlorine demand may be high as chlorine is used in an attempt to kill or control algae growth. Pools filled with algae may give off unpleasant odors.

To control algae growth, maintain adequate chlorine and oxidation reduction potential levels, keep the water circulating continuously, make sure you have a uniform circulation pattern and absence of dead spots in the pool, superchlorinate as needed when the combined chlorine level exceeds 0.2 ppm, and scrub or brush pool walls to prevent algae from adhering. If problems persist, you may need to use commercially prepared algaecides or algaestats to keep algae growth under control. Ask a pool service professional for advice on selecting an appropriate algaecide. Some algaecides are more effective against a particular type of algae, and some are more appropriate for use in pools or in spas.

If you continue to have serious algae problems, you may want to monitor nitrate levels more closely, and try to determine the source of contamination. Nitrates stimulate plant growth, and when high levels of nitrates (greater than 25 ppm) are present in pool water, uncontrolled algae growth often occurs even though unaccountably large amounts of chlorine are being used. Nitrates are introduced into pools from: fill water in areas where fertilizer has worked its way down into the ground water, contaminated reservoirs or wells, rain, fertilizers or grass blown into the pool from the adjoining landscaping, human or animal urine or fecal matter, and bird droppings. To lower pool nitrate levels, try shocking the pool with chlorine to over 30 ppm, or partially drain and refill the pool with water which is not contaminated with nitrates.

Also, keep phosphates in pool water below 125 ppb. Phosphates are introduced to pool water through bather urine and sweat, laundry detergents, leaves, dirt, and other organic wastes. If phosphate levels are too high, uncontrollable algae growth will result. To prevent algae growth, remove phosphates by adding a product like lanthanum carbonate. An insoluble lanthanum phosphate will form and precipitate the phosphate compounds out of the water solution. Then, vacuum or filter the precipitate out of the pool.

Algaecides

Quaternary ammonium salts (quats)

Wetting agent which decreases water surface tension so positively charged algaecide is attracted to negatively charged algae which disrupts algae cell membranes and suffocates the algae plant

Chelated copper salts

Copper based algaecide with a sequestering agent kills algae by blocking the formation of enzymes needed by algae for metabolism

Silver based colloidal algaecides

Small suspended silver particles prevent algae from feeding or breathing

Polyquats

Non–foaming positive charged polymer algaecide with a stronger charge than quats which disrupts the algae membrane and suffocates algae. Also works as a clarifier. Best choice for aerated spas, fountains or water features.

Granular trichloro–s–triazinetrione

Stabilized chlorine product most effective against black algae when applied directly on the algae

Chlorine enhancers (ammonium sulfate)

Forms combined chlorine in quantity to act as an algaecide. May contain sodium bromide. Most effective against mustard algae.

Blue colorants

Used to aesthetically enhance the appearance of water, control aquatic weeds and algae, and obscure machinery or objects below in amusement rides. Can be used in ponds, lakes, fountains, water features, and water rides, and water used for irrigation. They are non toxic and not harmful to bird, fish, animals, or the environment, but should not be used in water intended for human consumption. They should not be used in swimming pools or body contact recreational water lakes because they will obscure vision below the water surface, and chlorine will degrade it. Caution: Do not handle with wet hands. There is a possibility of staining during application, but there is no threat of staining once dispersed. Store in a cool, dry location.

Download Pool Tip #37: Frothy Discharge (PDF format, 17KB)

The pink–red frothy discharge from drowning victims is a result of hemolysis. This frothy discharge is typically observed during resuscitation attempts in wet drowning victims who have been submerged for more than 15 minutes. Less than 15 minutes, it is typically a whitish froth. After 50 minutes, it is usually brown in color.

In a freshwater pool drowning, water enters the lungs, and is drawn through alveoli membranes into the blood because of the higher sodium content of blood. Blood volume increases. Hemolysis, an exploding of red blood cells into the plasma, may occur causing an oxygen transport problem. Blood dilution within two or three minutes of the osmotic transfer causes an electrolyte imbalance. The sodium, potassium, chloride and magnesium chemical imbalance leads to ventricular fibrillation.

Ventricular fibrillation, or heart spasm originating in the ventricles, is fatal if it persists. Ventricular fibrillation results in ineffectual, imperfect or incomplete heart contractions, ventricular asystole, prevents cardiac output, and leads to cardiac arrest, or heart stoppage.

Successful treatment requires basic life support and CPR within 4 minutes and prompt defibrillation within 8 minutes. But unfortunately, the prognosis for resuscitation of a drowning victim is poor if there is a prolonged period of inadequate coronary activity.

Download Pool Tip #36: Hydrogen Peroxide Oxidation (PDF format, 29KB)

Many pools across the country, particularly warm water therapy pools, have installed UV light / hydrogen peroxide, or polyhexametamethylene biguanide / hydrogen peroxide sanitation – oxidation systems for the primary purpose of avoiding the use of halogens (chlorine, iodine or brominated compounds) when treating patients who are sensitive to commonly used pool chemicals.

Hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂), used for pool water treatment in a 35% concentration by weight in solution, is an unstable, highly reactive, non flammable, colorless liquid primarily used as an oxidizing agent in pools in combination with ultraviolet light or PHMB sanitizers. Hydrogen peroxide should not be used as a stand alone water sanitizer or bactericide, even though it is commonly used in 3% concentration as a topical antiseptic to combat selected microorganisms. Hydrogen peroxide has a relative oxidation power, based on chlorine as a reference, of 1.3. There is a synergistic effect when used with UV in which high oxidation potential hydroxyl free radicals (with a relative oxidation power, based on chlorine as a reference, of 2.05) are created. Through oxidation, hydrogen peroxide reduces organic nutrients in pool water which then prevents bacterial establishment and growth. Its use improves pool water clarity by reducing, breaking down or eliminating some suspended and dissolved organic matter in the water.

A hydrogen peroxide residual is usually maintained in the 30 to 40 ppm range in most low use pools, but as high as 100 ppm in some heavily used, high bather load to water volume ratio therapy pools and spas. Water can also be shocked with hydrogen peroxide to react with organic matter, improve clarity and eliminate odors. Levels must be closely monitored, because hydrogen peroxide dissipates rapidly from aerated or agitated pool water.

A few words of caution –– hydrogen peroxide cannot be used as an oxidizer in a pool with D.E. filters. Hydrogen peroxide will cause diatomaceous earth to dissolve. Hydrogen peroxide will also remove chlorine from pool water, so it should not be used in pools treated with chlorine. Concentrations in excess of 100 ppm in combination with long contact times can lead to corneal irritation. Hydrogen peroxide can decompose in the presence of contaminants, high temperatures or sunlight. Although hydrogen peroxide is non flammable, if it is allowed to decompose or it comes in contact with organic contaminants and oxidizable material, oxygen may be liberated, spontaneous combustion or explosions may occur and materials may burn –– but this is unlikely with proper storage and handling. Hydrogen peroxide should be stored in a mechanically ventilated chemical storage room with ample space to allow air circulation, in clean approved containers which are secondarily contained, stored away from heat and in a way that prevents contamination with dirt, metals or organic matter. According to the American Conference of Governmental Industrial Hygienists (ACGIH), the threshold limit (TVL) is 1 ppm. Precautions should be taken when handling (use safety goggles, wear protective clothing, and neoprene gloves and avoid inhaling or contact with skin), as is true with any strong oxidizer. It should be fed into the pool water with an automatic chemical feeder, tied to a pH/ORP controller, in order to maintain recommended levels necessary to maintain a minimum 750 mV ORP.

In high concentrations of 50% or so, hydrogen peroxide can be used to bleach mineral stained pool plaster. It’s used to bleach mineral stained hair of blonde/gray haired bathers, and the fur of zoo polar bears who have been swimming in improperly maintained pools with high dissolved metal concentrations. And, (here’s some real trivia) when mixed with chopped horseradish, it can remove phenols or carbolic acid from polluted water.

Download Pool Tip #35: Environmentally Friendly Pool Paints (PDF format, 21KB)

Because of environmental concerns and stronger air quality control standards, the use of chlorinated rubber and solvent based epoxy paints are being phased out in some areas of the country. The newer water based epoxy paints have a shorter life expectancy, but are kinder to the environment, easier to work with and clean up, and less costly initially.

The paints are specially designed for pool use and can withstand constant submersion and contact with common pool chemicals. Epoxy paints can be applied indoors or outdoors over wood, metal, fiberglass, or concrete materials, and can be tinted to a desired shade or color using coloring agents.

In preparation for painting, drain the pool and inspect the entire surface of the empty vessel. Remove all loose material. Scrape or sand off any excessive calcium build-up. Make sure the pool is dry and you have taken all appropriate safety precautions if working with an electrical sander. Remember water and electricity do not mix well. Sandblasting or water blasting may also be necessary.

Wash the entire pool with 1 cup of granular TSP (tri sodium phosphate) per 1 gallon of water, to remove oils, scum and other organic matter which has built up over time. Scrub the pool walls with a stiff bristled brush, then scrub the pool bottom in a similar manner. Be careful not to slip. Rinse the pool with fresh water from a hose with a high pressure nozzle.

Next, acid etch the surface to roughen it so the paint will adhere. Wear protective clothing that covers all areas of exposed skin. Wear a full face shield and respirator with fresh acid cartridges, rubber boots and gloves. Make sure that the area is extremely well ventilated, that you are not working alone, and that both you and your partner are knowledgeable in first aid procedures for acid burns, and respiratory emergencies if one of you should be overcome by fumes. Mix a diluted solution of 1 part muriatic acid to 4 parts of water in a plastic sprinkling can. To avoid excessive fuming, remember to add the acid to the container of water, rather than adding water to the acid. Doing a small area of the pool at a time, pour the acid mixture from the deck down. Scrub until the surface feels like fine sand paper. Keep the rinse water on at all times. Neutralize the acid with soda ash (sodium carbonate) before disposal, and make sure you have a permit if you’re disposing of the solution to a storm sewer. Keep the sump pump running and reposition the pump frequently so you don’t get a pump “footprint” on the pool bottom from the vibration of the pump.

After completing the acid wash, rinse the pool several times with fresh water. Reapply the TSP and water solution to the entire pool to remove and neutralize the acid.

Follow the manufacturers instructions when mixing the paint and blending colors. Do not start if weather conditions are threatening or outside temperatures do not coincide with the manufacturer’s specifications for proper conditions for paint application. Mix enough paint at one time to cover the entire pool. Use a sturdy lambskin roller with an extension handle and with a 1/2 inch nap for an even coat and uniform color. Use a small paint brush to paint around the tile lines, trim, steps, in corners or hard to reach areas, and around lights, inlets, drains and other pool fixtures. Sprinkle silica sand or other commercially available slip resistant materials on the pool steps and other heavily used shallow areas of the pool to increase the friction coefficient. Try to finish painting in the shallow end of the pool so you don’t accidentally paint yourself into a corner and get stuck in the pool.

A second coat of paint may be necessary. Water based epoxy paints dry rapidly, but you should wait 72 hours before applying the second coat of paint unless the manufacturer advises otherwise. Some manufacturers recommend that the pool be filled with water the same days it’s been painted while others suggest waiting 3 or 4 days before filling to allow the paint to dry completely.

Download Pool Tip #34: Hiring a Pool Service Company (PDF format, 24KB)

Don’t hire a company to provide pool maintenance services just because they submitted the lowest bid. Not all pool service firms are equal. They may provide different services, or levels of service. One company may be more reliable than another, or show more pride in their work. Another may hire pool service technicians who are more experienced, or provide better training in pool operation, maintenance or repair to their employees.

When choosing a pool service firm, make a checklist and obtain answers to the following questions.

How reliable is the company?

Find out how long the company has been in business, and whether they are affiliated with a professional trade association like AP&SP (NSPI), or hold membership in a pool servicemen’s association like IPSSA. Call the Better Business Bureau and ask for details about complaints filed against the company. Request a list of satisfied customers.

How knowledgeable or skilled are the service technicians?

What percentage of the pools they service are similar to yours? You don’t want to hire a company to provide commercial pool service, if most of their customers are small residential pool and spa facilities. Are they familiar with the types or brands of equipment you have installed on your pool? Are the service techs familiar with applicable codes, regulations and guidelines? Are they Certified Pool–Spa Operators, or do they have equivalent education, certification or training? If required, are they licensed? Are the technicians capable of completing minor repairs? Will a licensed contractor supervise equipment replacement or major repairs done on the pool?

What services are included in the basic contract?

What’s not included? Find out how many pools are serviced per day on a typical route. Are the pools on a route all in the same neighborhood, or geographically spread out around the county? How much time will a technician typically spend at your pool per service call? If your facility is open year round, is year–round service available? If your facility is only open part of the year, can they provided seasonal opening and winterizing services? Do they also provide pool management services?

What will the service cost?

Find out how much you will be billed for the service based on a specific number of visits per week. Obtain a price list or fee schedule which explains what you will be billed for special services, emergency service, or service required after hours, on holidays or weekends. Are travel expenses included in the fee or will you be charged extra for travel time for non scheduled jobs? If the company charges more than most of their competitors are they worth it, because they provide enhanced or better services?

Download Pool Tip #33: Lap Swimming in Crowded Pools (PDF format, 18KB)

Lap swimming space is often at a premium in small home, health club, hotel or apartment complex pools. If you are required to share a swim lane, you should “circle swim”.

When circle swimming, rather than swimming directly over the tile lane line as you normally would, swim to the right of the line. Swim up the pool on one side of the lane and back down on the other side of the lane. Keep your left arm over the lane line and attempt to swim in a straight line to avoid collisions with other swimmers. Ask management to designate lanes for fast, medium speed and slow swimmers. It takes some practice, but after awhile you can learn to comfortably swim with two or three swimmers in a standard seven to ten foot wide lane.

Remember to integrate lap swimming into a total water fitness program. Supplement your workout with water walking, aqua bobbing, bench stepping or other forms of aerobic water exercise. Lap swimmers have a tendency to primarily use the upper bodies for propulsion. For a thorough workout, include vertical water exercises for the lower body.